Mistakes to avoid

1. Moving too quickly

When we go out with our shiny new metal detectors, I think there’s a subconscious push toward us moving quickly because we want to go out and find stuff. Hence, you are a little bit hastier than you would be if you’ve been doing it for a few years and you understand that you need to slow down as much as possible. I found that when I first started, and I realized I wasn’t finding much stuff because I was moving too quickly. You must give that coil time to scan the ground beneath the ground; I think many seasoned pros would agree with me.

2. Expectations

Number two is twinned with number one and not being patient enough mixed in simultaneously, expecting too much too soon. This is largely a psychological game, and if you expect to go out and find a hoard of treasure or a gold nugget immediately, you will be disappointed. It’s a big mistake, a big psychological mistake to make. You should instead see the physical benefits of it in the first instance and then the psychological ones. And then perhaps if you find anything on top of that, it’s a bonus.

3. Technique

The third one is like the first one, moving too quickly; another bad or ineffective technique is swinging the coil too high above the ground and missing targets just beneath you, losing depth. Also, adjust the length of your stem; if you crunch over too much, you’ll get back pains and other muscle pains that will hurt your detecting and lessen your time being out-detecting, so an efficient technique is important.

4. Equipment

Using the correct equipment for metal detecting is important. However, there are also things you shouldn’t use, steel toe caps being one, going out in trainers on a muddy field is not good because you can do yourself some ankle damage. Gloves are also important for metal detecting. People often forget to go out with gloves; protecting your hands from sharp objects is very important.

Carry with you a good-quality digging tool, not a trowel from a garden center!

5. Digging into a Target

Digging into the target rather than just on the outside of the target is a common mistake I have seen many times and is easily avoided. When pinpointing the target and establishing the X axis, do not put their spade on that central point; instead, move it out around 5- inches and dig around the central X axis. This way, you have less chance of ruining what’s beneath your spade.

6. Metal Detecting Without Permission in the UK: Legal Consequences and Historical Implications

The next one is not getting metal detecting permission, and in this country, particularly if you go on land without permission, you can be in trouble. You can be in financial trouble, taken to court, and all sorts of things, but that’s the least of your worries; being shot at by a farmer or having the dogs set on you is not good. Many parts of the UK are protected because of historical interest, and it’s there to protect the archaeology and the heritage because if you take something off the field and take it out without being recorded, the history is lost forever.

Getting permission, I know it’s not always easy. It’s difficult; I understand I’ve been there, but it is necessary.

7. Knowing your machine

This one is self-explanatory, but many people miss it, which is not understanding your machine. Some people will buy a metal detector, watch a YouTube video, and off they go.

You must read the instruction book, I would recommend watching a few YouTube videos, especially the tutorials, but in addition to that, you can go further. You should set up a testbed with different targets at different depths, dig a hole in the ground you can put a coin at three inches, and then dig one at six inches with a different target; you then keep going over and over with your metal detector and remember the signals. For example, on a silver hammered coin at five inches, see what your metal detector tells you; the same with a ring or any jewelry, and then play with them and see what sounds and signals you get.

8. Cleaning Finds

Many beginners take their finds home and try cleaning them; my advice is “don’t.” I have seen too many good finds ruined by amateur attempts at cleaning. Whatever the find is, you will devalue it if you try cleaning it. People try to clean the patina off coins and rip them apart in the historical context. They should be left; it’s not only from a historical point of view but also from a value point of view. Collectors don’t want you to clean metal detector finds. A bronze coin can be ruined by just running it under tap water! The best thing is to get a soft toothbrush, gently brush off the dirt, and then leave it. Some good books are available about cleaning finds if you want to do it correctly.

9. Ground Balance

I never ground-balanced for a long time until I realized I was losing around 15% depth. It’s one of those things you should always do. I think there are some machines out there that do this automatically and many that can be manually balanced. If your machine can be ground balanced, you will increase your chances of finding good stuff if you take a few minutes to do the ground balancing.

Many detectorists go out in the summer in nice dry weather. However, the problem is the conductivity of items is better in wet conditions, so it’s better to go out after heavy rain; it is better conditioned, and you’ll notice that you’ll find more targets while the soil is damp. Your metal detector will ‘come alive’ in wet conditions as the target conductivity is much higher when wet, thus giving stronger signals.

The post 10 Metal Detecting Beginners Mistakes and How to Avoid Them appeared first on UK Metal Detectors.

Where to Metal Detect: Places Worth Searching

The beachcombing metal detector user is now a familiar sight; if you go down to the beach in the early morning, you will find a metal detectorist systematically searching the beach before the crowds arrive to sunbath Before coming out, they made a very careful note of the exact location of the ice cream stall.

The most sheltered spots on the beach were where the noisy coach party sat so they could head straight to where they would most likely find coins lost from pockets, rings, and watches. One man in Cornwall found over two hundred rings in less than a year — all in wearable (or saleable) condition. It is amazing how many people forget that their fingers shrink when cold or wet, and rings slip completely unnoticed.

The keen detectorist will be out during the day and all night long if conditions warrant it. The man who turns up at dawn after a night storm or spring tide may find that other, hardier types have already cleaned up and gone home to breakfast. But do check the tide tables — and remember that in some places you can be cut off by the sea well before high tide. Check with the local coastguard.

Do not feel, though, that only beach detecting will do! Any site that has seen occupation regularly or used regularly in the past will repay careful searching. Footpaths, riverside walks, local beauty spots, and lovers’ lanes all contain their quota of finds — and do not forget the foot of slippery slopes: a person slipping may not notice coins, etc., falling from their pocket or may be too embarrassed to search for them!

Farm outbuildings can be highly profitable too, and fields, where old horse-trading fairs were held, are a rich source of treasure; so too are modern fairgrounds and circus sites — although you may have noticed that many professional fairgrounds people are out with their metal detectors before they leave. However, they are usually in a hurry, particularly if they search at night, and search very

superficially, so they usually miss a lot. Take note of where most small change passes hands. Coins, even £1 coins, may be lost or ignored if the loser struggles with three ice creams, two candyflosses, and a hot dog!

‘Pick your own’ sites, whether strawberries, apples, or potatoes, could provide you with pickings of quite another sort. Hop fields can be virtual gold mines since the pickers were traditionally East Londoners on a working holiday. During the day, they worked hard, and money continually changed hands.

At night they played just as hard with enormous bonfires outside the rows of living huts and plenty of ale to help the party go with a swing. When the season ended, they left behind a considerable amount of junk. Still, they also left coins, lighters, rings, and many children’s toys, such as lead soldiers and boats, now collector’s items; these can all be found easily with a decent-quality metal detector.

Do trees surround your favorite holiday spot? Good. Trees may sound like odd things to search for, but they were favorite hiding places in days gone by. After all, many trees survived hundreds of years and would have been easily recognizable when the owner wanted to retrieve his hoard. But life was often cut short unexpectedly, whether it was the highwayman getting his just deserts on the gallows, illness, or violence, and many hoards were never reclaimed.

Hidden in the mighty but frequently hollow oak tree, these precious hoards may well be several feet above the ground, so search the bole of the tree and among the roots (being careful not to damage these, of course). I have an eye on an oak tree near my home which was part of the boundary between two parishes and alongside the route of a path from one village to another. Who knows, this could be my find of a lifetime.

Your local Library is a reliable source of local history; find out what has happened over the centuries in and around your village or city. Look out for old maps of your area; maps contain lots of interesting information that is particularly useful to the metal detectorist.

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Before You Go Metal-Detecting: Guidelines to Follow

1. Not trespassing; Before you start detecting, obtain permission to search from the landowner/occupier, regardless of the land’s status or perceived status.

Remember that all land has an owner; to avoid subsequent disputes, it is always advisable to get permission and agreement in writing first regarding the ownership of any finds subsequently discovered (see www.cla.org.uk/ and nfuonline.com).

2. Adhering to the laws concerning protected sites (e.g., those defined as Scheduled Monuments or Sites of Special Scientific Interest: you can obtain details of these from the landowner/occupier, Finds Liaison Officer or Historic Environment Record www.heritagegateway.org.uk.

Take extra care when detecting near protected sites: for example, it is not always clear where the boundaries lie on the ground.

3. We strongly recommend you join a metal detecting club or association that encourages cooperation and responsive exchanges with other responsible heritage groups. Details of metal-detecting organizations can be found at www.ncmd.co.uk / www.fid.newbury.net.
4. Familiarise yourself with and follow current conservation advice on the handling, caring, and storing of archaeological objects (see www.finds.org.uk).

While you are metal detecting:

5. Wherever possible, work on the ground that has already been disturbed (such as ploughed land or that which has formerly been ploughed) and only within the depth of ploughing. If detection takes place on undisturbed pasture, ensure that no damage is done to the archaeological value of the Land, including earthworks.
6. Minimising any ground disturbance using suitable tools and reinstating excavated material as neatly as possible. Endeavor not to damage stratified archaeological deposits.
7. Recording findspots as accurately as possible for all finds (i.e., to at least a one hundred meter square, using an Ordnance Survey map or hand-held Global Positioning Systems (GPS) device) while in the field.

The bag finds individually and records the National Grid Reference (NGR) on the bag. Findspot information should not be passed on to other parties without the agreement of the landowner/occupier (see also clause 9).
8. Respect the Country Code (leave gates and property as you find them and do not damage crops, frighten animals, disturb ground nesting birds, and dispose properly of litter: see www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk).

After you have been metal-detecting:

9. Reporting any finds to the relevant landowner/occupier; and (with the agreement of the landowner/occupier) to the Portable Antiquities Scheme so that the information can pass into the local Historic Environment Record. Both the Country Land and Business Association (www.cla.org.uk) and the National Farmers Union (www.nfuonline.com) support the reporting of finds. Details of your local Finds Liaison Officer can be found at www.finds.org.uk, by e-mail at info@finds.org.uk, or by phone at 020 7323 8611.
10. Abiding by the provisions of the Treasure Act and Treasure Act Code of Practice (www. finds.org.uk), wreck law (www.mcga.gov.uk), and export licensing. If you need advice, your local Finds Liaison Officer can help you.
11. Seeking expert help if you discover something large below the ploughed soil, a concentration of finds or unusual material, or wreck remains, and ensuring that the Landowner/occupier’s permission is obtained.

Your local Finds Liaison Officer may be able to help or will be able to advise an appropriate person. Reporting the find does not change your rights of discovery but will result in far more archaeological evidence being discovered.
12. Call the Police, and notify the landowner/occupier, if you find traces of human remains.
13. Call the Police or HM Coastguard, and notify the landowner/occupier, if you find anything that may be a live explosive: do not use a metal detector or mobile phone nearby as this might trigger an explosion. Do not attempt to move or interfere with any such explosives.
Finding out more about archaeology:
You can find out more about the archaeology of your area from the Historic Environment Records maintained by local authority archaeology services (in England) and the Welsh archaeological trusts (see contact lists at www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.1549 and www.ggat org UK/fourwelshtrusts.htm)
For further information, contact the Council for British Archaeology (Tel 01904 71417 / www.britarch.ac.uk), which can also supply details of local archaeology societies.

See Also: DO I NEED PERMISSION TO METAL DETECT ON THE BEACH?

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Let us start with the metal detector itself and have a look at the way it works: A metal detector has three main constituents; the coil, the control box, and the handle/stem on which the coil and box are mounted.
The coil is the plastic circular head at the base of the stem which contains two coil elements, one for transmission and one for receiving. When the metal detector is in use the transmitter in the coil sends out a magnetic field that penetrates the ground.

When this field encounters a metal object, that object itself becomes magnetically charged. The magnetic field of the newly magnetized object is detected by the sensitive receiver in the coil which in turn sends a signal to the control box.
The control box contains the microprocessors which interpret and filter the signal passed on by the receiver and relay the information to the operator.

Other Essential Equipment for Treasure Hunting

In addition to the metal detector, you will require a number of other items, some more important than others. The following are listed in rough order of priority:

The Importance of Earphones

Whilst you can use a metal detector without earphones it is recommended that you invest in a pair as it is much easier to hear and interpret the signals.

 The Versatile Trowel

Naturally, when you have pinpointed a target below ground you will need to dig it up. The tried and tested tool for this job is the humble trowel. There are a number of trowels for sale aimed specifically at the treasure hunter and if one takes your fancy by all means buy it. However, a good gardening implementation with the right design will suffice. Indeed, the precise nature of the tool is far less important than the way you use it. Please see the detector code.

The Need for a Scuff Cover

Some protection for the coil on your detector is a good idea given the importance of the job it does and the fact that it is operating very much at the sharp end. These covers are readily available at low cost and are also available for the control box, offering additional waterproofing.

The Importance of Proper Clothing

This may seem a little obvious. After all, you are unlikely to treasure hunt in the nude. Not for very long, anyway.

However, the point we are making here is that treasure hunting is a year-round hobby and therefore you will need some good quality clothing that will keep you warm and dry or cool and dry. It cannot be overemphasized that being comfortable is at the heart of successful long-detecting sessions.

Choose the Right Metal Detector with UK METAL DETECTORS

UK METAL DETECTORS offers you the right detector at the right price, with a range of beginner, intermediate, and professional machines to suit all budgets.

For more information, please contact us at – 07706 764 603 or by email: sales@uk-metal-detectors.co.uk

The post Discover the Secrets of Successful Metal Detecting: Essential Guidelines for Beginner Detectorists appeared first on UK Metal Detectors.

What is a long-range metal detector?

A long range metal detector is a type of metal detector that is designed to detect metal objects at greater distances than traditional metal detectors. These detectors use advanced technology to detect metal objects from up to several hundred feet away. Long range metal detectors are often used for treasure hunting, security, and military applications.

Who uses them?

Long-range metal detectors are often marketed as being able to detect metals at great depths or distances using various techniques, such as frequency scanning or resonance imaging. However, there is limited scientific evidence to support the effectiveness of these devices for detecting metals in the ground.

Sceptical?

Many experts in the metal detecting community are sceptical of long-range detectors, and some even consider them to be fraudulent or scams. In general, traditional metal detectors that rely on electromagnetic induction and target discrimination are more widely used and trusted for metal detecting purposes. So, while there may be many instances where a long-range detector has been successful in detecting metal, however, they are not known for general metal detecting applications.

Technology

Long-range metal detectors typically rely on technologies that detect the presence of metal targets from a distance, such as a few hundred meters away, through various means like resonance imaging, and frequency scanning. However, the scientific technology for these devices is a patented confidential design that only a few manufacturers have the capability to manufacture products that function correctly.

Traditional V Long-Distance

Most traditional metal detectors used for treasure hunting and other applications rely on electromagnetic induction to detect metal targets within a few inches of the search coil. These detectors operate on the principle that when an electromagnetic field is applied to a metal object, it induces a current in the metal that can be detected by the search coil and relayed back to the control box to generate a signal. The Long-Range technology works by transmitting a series of electromagnetic signals at different frequencies and then analysing the reflected signals to detect metal objects.

 

Prospectors for Gold

While some manufacturers of long-range metal detectors claim that their devices can detect metal objects at great distances and depths, there is typically little empirical evidence to support these claims, however, many prospectors use these devices to find natural gold and buried treasures with regular success and some at impressive depths. The good quality Long Range detectors use resonance imaging to detect metal objects. This technology is based on the fact that every metal object emits its own unique frequency signature that can be detected by a sensor. The device emits a high frequency signal which ‘hits’ the metal target and the locator detects the signal which bounces back, from the frequency received it identifies the target type.

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Hobby

Metal detecting is a hobby that a lot of different people enjoy. It is one of those things that for some people is a hobby and for others is a way of life. There is a lot of history to metal detecting and it’s not just about finding treasure. Metal detecting has been around for centuries. The earliest known metal detector was created in 1854. In 1869, the first metal detector patent was filed by a man named William James Lonsdale. In the 1870s, metal detecting became a popular pastime. At the start of the 20th century, metal detecting was used in the hunt for buried treasure. Now, metal detecting is used in a lot of different ways including prospecting, coin shooting, treasure hunting, and locating bombs.

Mine Detecting

The history of metal detecting typically starts in the 1800s. It was during this period that the use of metal detectors started to be used to locate objects of value. In the 1800s, the use of metal detectors was not common and most people used this type of device for treasure hunting. They typically looked for coins and valuables. However, during the 1900s, the use of metal detectors started to spread when World War I broke out. The use of metal detectors increased during World War II as people used them in order to locate unexploded bombs. The use of metal detectors continued to spread during the late 1800s and early 1900s. In the 1930s and 1940s, the use of metal detectors increased in order to locate gold that was still buried underground. During the 1950s, the discovery of lead began to be used and became a valuable resource. The 1800s was the earliest period in which the use of metal detectors became popular.

George Williams

BFO

BFO metal detector is a basic metal detector that is easy to use and has a lightweight design, it comes with a rechargeable battery and is a versatile device that can be used for treasure hunting and general metal detecting where small objects are close to the surface. In the early 1970s, metal detectors were introduced to the market. At the time, they were mainly used for treasure hunting, nowadays, metal detectors are used for a number of purposes, such as walk through security metal detection located in airports, prisons, large events. They are also used regularly for detecting on construction sites, and within archaeological sites.

VLF

The first VLF metal detector was built by William Brown. He created the VLF detector in the early 1900s. This detector was built to find metals, specifically gold. VLF metal detectors were able to detect low-frequency radio waves. This was the first metal detector to use a transmitter and receiver, which are still used today. The first VLF metal detector was able to find metals, including gold at a depth of 30 to 100 feet.

Long Range Metal Detector

In 1970, Gilberto Valle invented the first Long Range metal detector. This detector is able to detect metal objects from a distance of 50 feet. Some say this was the start of metal detecting. In the mid 1970’s, a new type of metal detector was introduced. It was made to detect metal as far as 1,000 yards. It was called the Long Range metal detector. The Long Range metal detector was originally  made to be used in the harshest conditions. It was one of the first metal detectors to have a handle that was easy to operate. It was also one of the first metal detectors to have the popular trigger style mechanism.

 

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New Type of Detector

Further attempts at metal detection were made using the Wheatstone Bridge circuit for measuring resistance, here again conductivity was a determining factor but the conductivity between two points of the Earth’s surface had to be calculated indirectly by first measuring resistance. This method also approved in 1902 by the London Electric and so the company filed an application to the British Patent Office for an entirely new type of metal detector, this was a very advanced instrument for its time having a range of 100 Herts and operated as follows, a bank of batteries supplied a high voltage heavy-duty current to a spark generator its output was produced by a motorised contact breaker to achieve a signal of an audio frequency, which in turn was directed to a transmitter probe driven into the earth at a suitable distance away. Two similar probes were connected to a receiving apparatus and equal potential lines of contacts.

1970’s

In a Popular 70’s Mechanics publication an article describes the use of induction PI machines and mentions a 16 inch depth. It was in early 1970 metal detectors were used to find unexploded bombs in France after World War One. In 1928 Shirl Herr received a patent for a similar design that was affective to a depth of 8 feet. His invention quickly went international and was used in Antarctic exploration on the recovery of artifacts at the bottom of Lake Nemi in Italy.

George Williams

1927 the first book of Modern Divining Rods: The Construction & Operation of Electrical Treasure Finders written by Santschi, R. J. It became a best-seller in 1928 with a very rapid development of wireless techniques during World War 1. It was only natural that this technique would be adopted to metal locators and prospecting equipment, one of the first pioneers to exploit this challenge for locating buried treasure was Englishman George Williams who was an operator for the salvage ship during the recovery of gold from the wreck on the SS Laurentic ship. Being fully conversant with wireless techniques and seeing the same primitive treasure locators available, he then decided he could improve the existing technology by designing a radio locator.

Fisher Labs

in 1933 Gahan Fisher founded a research laboratory which remains a leading manufacturer of metal detectors to this day. Fisher emigrated to the United States from Germany after studying electronics at the University of Dresden while working as a research engineer in Los Angeles California. Radio detection finders led him to the idea of a portable metal detector which he shared the idea with Albert Einstein who correctly predicted the proliferation of handheld metal detectors.

Detecting Landmines

Metal detecting has been around for centuries, but it wasn’t until the late 19th century that it became a popular hobby. The first metal detectors were developed in the late 1800s by Alexander Graham Bell and his assistant, Charles F. Varley. Bell was looking for a way to locate metal objects buried underground and Varley developed the first metal detector. In the 1950s, metal detectors became more sophisticated and were used to locate larger objects such as buried pipes and cables. They were also used to locate landmines during the Vietnam War. In the 1970s, metal detectors became even more advanced and were used to locate gold nuggets and other precious metals, the Gold Detector was born. This led to a surge in popularity of metal detecting as a hobby. Today, metal detectors are used by hobbyists all over the world to search for coins, jewellery, relics, and other treasures. Metal detecting has come a long way since its invention in the late 19th century. It has become an incredibly popular hobby that is enjoyed by people of all ages. Whether you’re looking for coins, jewellery, or something more valuable, metal detecting can be an exciting and rewarding experience.

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Chinese Detector

It is difficult to believe that 200 BC saw the first metal detector invented in China, yes, it’s true that a Chinese document indicates a metal detector was in use more than thirty years before the birth of Christ. A Chinese emperor had a doorway metal detector constructed to protect himself against any assassination attempt. His craftsmen built the doorway of a magnetic mineral called magnetite with the frame possibly built something like a horseshoe magnet through a combination of heating and striking the magnetite with hammers an attractor was created, the heating and jarring caused the molecules to align themselves in the direction of the Earth’s magnetic field, if a person attempted to carry an object such as armour, sword or metal weapon through the doorway these objects would be drawn against the doorway.

Metal Rod Detector

In the early 1800s many scientists and engineers used their growing knowledge of electrical theory in an attempt to devise a machine which would pinpoint metal. In 1830 English geologists and mining engineer RW Fox first discovered that electricity will flow through metallic ores as well as solid metal objects thus he devised a simple metal locator which consisted of nothing more than a battery, several metal rods and a suitable length of wire. His first method of detection was as follows, one metal rod will be driven into the earth where a suspected vein of ore was located. It was connected to one terminal of the battery the battery terminal is connected to a floating wire where all the metal rods were driven into the ground at several different places. If a spark occurred it was an indication that metal was present.

Induction Balance

In 1879 professor de Hugh’s demonstrated to the Royal Society in London his induction balance machine, Hughes and his instrument maker William Groves soon recognised the potential of the Induction Balance (IB) as a metal locator, this development was used in various London hospitals for locating metal objects in human bodies.

Electromagnetism

In 1881 the well-known American inventor George Hopkins modified an induction balance machine for locating buried treasures. in fact induction ballast forms the basis of most metal detectors today, did you know that early 1880s Alexander Graham Bell experimented with a metal detecting device, he studied the theory of electromagnetism previously demonstrated by Joseph Henry, the Induction Balance was also influenced by Bell’s previous experience in his home where he could hear the ticking of the clock while wearing a phone earpiece when a piece of metal was brought near the device reasons already deduced that the electric balance has been disturbed and this could be enough to detect a hidden metal object. He therefore studied these concepts and published new methods of exploring the field of induction. During July 1880 Alexander Graham Bell used such a device to attempt to locate a bullet lodged in the chest of American President James Garfield, the metal detector worked correctly but attempt was unsuccessful because the metal coil spring bed Garver was lying on confused a detector!

Alexander Graham Bell

Alexander Graham Bell in 1890 carried out a test to locate sulphides through the medium of conductivity using a telegraphic receiver connected in series with a battery and a wire brush. Electrical contacts were made in the earth and a brush was moved over the surface, in this way the brush will complete the circuit and gave a signal by a ‘click’ on the receiver. This method could only be used on exposed mineralised surfaces and so the method was of limited value.

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​Choosing your 1st Metal Detector

Some useful tips and information to help you buy a great metal detector.

News update, UK Metal Detectors would like to announce that we are the official UK Distributors for the Golden Mask range of metal detectors!

 

Price?

First, how much are you able to afford? Will you have to save up some money? Borrow? These factors may affect your price range but not the care with which you must take to make your selection. A standard model can cost anything up to £1000 but it is certainly not necessary to spend that much on a first machine. I would not suggest that you go beyond £300 as an absolute upper limit and many machines will cost considerably less. Do remember, choosing your 1st metal detector however, that generally speaking you can expect to find more with a more expensive machine and therefore recoup the cost more quickly and lessen the risk of becoming bored. It also has a better resale value if you decide this is not the hobby for you. On the other hand, a cheap machine has to find less to pay for itself and your later finds will enable you to trade up to a more expensive machine when you are ready, many a successful treasure hunter has done just that. Some dealers may even be able to offer you a good second-hand machine but be careful as I have bought second hand only to find the detector had an intermittent fault.

 

Where will you metal detect?

What type of land are you most likely to be searching? Will it be beaches, farmland or open moorland for instance?

After considering these questions, the next step is to read some of our blog posts some of which have reviews on detectors and how to use them. This will give you details of the latest developments and their advantages. But because sometimes it is easy to be confused by an enthusiastic salesman who may only want to sell you not the most suitable machine for you, but the one which gives him the biggest commission, I will set out here the basic terminology.

 

VLF & PI Detectors

VLF Detectors

Very Low Frequency machines (VLF) are designed to counteract the effect of ground conditions and make discrimination easier. They are extremely sensitive to iron. There is a whole range of machines available, most with discrimination. Their performance differs widely however, and they are being updated at regular intervals, so buying the latest model will ensure the latest technology.

Pulse Induction Detectors

Pulse Induction machines are without doubt the most sensitive and deep seeking of machines. However, their very sensitivity renders them unsuitable for general treasure hunting, particularly for the beginner. As usual there are two sides to the question: if your interest is primarily archaeological then you may not mind digging up nails eight inches deep, so this machine could be the one for you. They are certainly highly efficient at tuning out ground effect. I use one myself, but only for beachcombing or when working in conjunction with someone who is using another type of machine.

 

Practice

So, at last you have got your metal detector home. As soon as you can, read the instructions carefully and start practising. It should not take you very long to master the art of the steady, regular search swing and the location of your test objects – coins are probably the most convenient to start with. See if you can estimate the size – or depth if you have the opportunity of burying test objects by the difference in signals. When you are happy with your performance you can start to experiment with the discrimination mode; start by cutting out ordinary bottle tops to get the procedure right, then try silver paper (actually aluminium foil), iron nails, ring-pulls, etc. listen to the signals given by different metals and see if you can tell one from another. Like most hobbies success comes with paractice, metal detecting is no different.

We recommend joining the Association for Metal Detecting Sport – visit their website for more information www.amds.org.uk

Thank you for visiting our website, please come back to read more articles on metal detecting.

HAPPY HUNTING!

​

Question?

So now you are convinced that metal detecting is the hobby for you, and you are all set to seek your fortune. First, however, you must actually acquire the instrument of your fortune – Choosing your 1st Metal Detector – An efficient Metal Detector! Initially the diversity of choice can seem thoroughly confusing, so before you rush out to buy, it is worth sitting down and asking yourself a few essential questions.

 

Other things to consider

Other things you must think about are: how you intend to transport your machine – has it got to collapse down to go in a bag if travelling on a train or aeroplane? When choosing your 1st metal detector weight is also something to consider, if the machine is heavy and not well balanced this can cause considerable fatigue out in the field after a few hours of detecting. Do you have any special require­ments such as the need to plug in a hearing aid? Check the size of the jack socket and buy an adjuster if necessary.

 

How they work

Metal detectors work by passing a rapidly changing current of electricity through a loop or coil of wire in the search head. The search Head has two coils, a transmitter coil and a receiver coil, The transmitter coil generates a magnetic field, when this field makes contact with the target object it magnifies the metal object which causes an interference in this field which is relayed back to the control box where the electronics analyse and filter the signal.

 

“Mine is the Best”

Human nature being what it is, you will need to make do allowance for the fact that every detectorist is absolutely convinced that theirs is the very best machine on the market.

After what should you buy, your next question is undoubtedly ‘where shall I buy?’ Detectors can be purchased from a number of different outlets, so the best advice is buy from a well-established dealer such as UK METAL DETECTORS, they have many years’ experience selling detecting equipment and are keen detectorists themselves.

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​Digging up the Past

Before you embark on this hobby, I think it only fair to warn you that treasure hunters armed with metal detectors are not always universally loved; indeed, in some area’s local bye-Iaws may prohibit their use. Why should this be? Surely metal detectors are quite harmless?

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Permission

So, to go back to my original question, why should anyone oppose the responsible use of these machines? An obvious source of opposition are property owners whose land you go upon without permission. Even birdwatchers, whom I would have thought to be the most harmless of enthusiasts, can incur the wrath of a farmer if they trespass on his fields; how much more likely is the anger of a farmer who suspects that you are digging holes in his crops. Indeed, even if the land looks barren to you the owner may still not wish you to go on it, and you must, by law, respect his or her wishes.

 

The Victoria Cave

In his deadpan account Mr Jackson omits to tell us that the coins were Roman, that there were delicate brooches, amber beads, bronze ornaments, finger-rings, armlets, and bracelets. Jackson’s cave, renamed ‘The Victoria Cave’, was thoroughly investigated by a committee of experts who identified the animal bones and classified the ornaments and coins. Gradually it emerged that the cave had been inhabited during the fifth century AD, in the so-called Dark Ages when the Roman armies had left the Britons to defend themselves against waves of barbarian invaders. A refuge in a time of lawlessness, it had remained undisturbed for 1500 years. The contents of this cave would have excited any treasure hunter, and the objects were valuable in themselves. More important for all of us, however, was the fact that those objects gave us information on how our ancestors lived-but remember that a number of experts were needed to extract that information and draw what we hope are the correct conclusions. So my own view is that when you get your metal detector not only should you keep off sites scheduled as being of archaeological importance (and you must do this by law), but you should also keep clear of the fields around the site unless you first come to an understanding with your local Finds liaison Officer, museum curators, or archaeologists.

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Harmless Detector

Not only are metal detectors in themselves harmless, but they also have definite beneficial uses, the treasure hunter’s aid has been developed from wartime mine detectors, and as you will know that advanced forms of these are used to search for weapons in trouble spots around the world today. The police, too, make use of them in the rather macabre business of looking for bodies. On occasions amateur treasure hunters asked by their clubs to help with these searches.

 

Archaeologists

But apart from landowners there is a group of people with whom you may be in a sort of competition, since you both have an interest in digging up the past. To an outsider there sometimes appears to be a state of war between this group the archaeologists and the treasure-hunting fraternity. I have many reasons for feeling gratitude towards the profession of archaeology for the pleasure their exhibitions have given me on my journeys around the world. That these people share the treasure hunter’s excitements was revealed here, an account from nineteenth-century Britain. In 1885, on Queen Victoria’s coronation day, a Mr Joseph Jackson crawled into a cave at Settle in Yorkshire. This is how he described his find:

The entrance was nearly filled up with rubbish and overgrown with nettles. After removing these obstructions, I was obliged to lie down at full length to get in. The first appearance that struck me on entering was the large quantity of clay and earth, which seemed as if washed in from without, and presented to the view round pieces like balls of different sizes. Of this clay there must be several hundred wagon loads but abounding more in the first than in the branch caves. In some parts a stalagmitic crust had formed, mixed with bones, broken pots, etc. It was on this crust I found the principal part of the coins; the other articles being mostly imbedded in the clay. In the other caves very, little has been found. When we get through the clay, which is very stiff and deep, we generally find the rock covered in bones, all broken and presenting the appearance of having been gnawed. The entrance into the inner cave has been walled up at the sides. In the insides were several large stones lying near the hole, any one of which would have completely blocked it up by merely turning the stone over. I pulled the wall down, and the aperture was now about a yard wide, and two feet high. On digging up the clay at about nine or ten inches deep, I found the original floor; it was hard and gravelly, and strewed with bones, broken pots and other objects. The roof of the cave was beautifully hung with stalactites in various fantastic forms and as white as snow.

 

Good Practice

Now, just as each treasure hunter is an individual with his or her own views on how a treasure hunter should behave responsibly, so also are archaeologists’ individuals who may well disagree with each other on this matter. Some would like to see all metal detectors banned because of the abuses of a minority of enthusiasts whose actions would be frowned upon by the majority of those involved in the hobby. Others would wish to come to some sort of a working arrangement with treasure hunters so that each can benefit from the other’s activity. The introduction of the Portable Antiquities Scheme (PAS) and a code of conduct has gone a long way to reduce the gap and build bridges between these two parties, in fact Historic England has recently awarded £50,000 to explore setting up an Institute of Detectorists to promote good practice and provide courses in collaboration with professionals.

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